A friend of mine bought one of the Ryobi's years ago. I guess the major difference in these machines is whether or not you need to just adjust the machine (Delta, Powermatic, General), or have a machinist make some part flat, then adjust the machine (Sears, Jet, most eastern imports).Īs for the benchtops, they usually still need adjusting too. The Taunton press (who publishes Fine Woodworking) has some great books on tuning up woodworking machines, Mark Duginski authors some of these. And that's what I'll use until I find the old Delta cabinet saws using one of those ancient old huge 1 1/2 HP induction repulsion motors. Personally, I think the best VALUE in table saws are the common Sears 10" saws available for from free (been given 3 of them over the years) to $100 (and never spend more than that) and then spend another $150 tuning it up. And still I have to measure the distance from the blade to the fence (for ripping) at BOTH the front AND back edge of the blade (using the same tooth) EVERY time I move it. I HATED my sears 10" saw till necessity forced my to buy a new arbor, mount balanced pullys, remanufacture the tilting mechanism and align the whole thing up with a dial indicator. The question is, are you willing spend the money and time getting the saw to do it? In my opinion, ALL stationary and hand (and some portable) tools are kits, in need of proper tuning and adjustment to make them work properly. ANY saw can make a "furniture quality" cut.
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